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Why Everyone's Skipping the Côte d’Azur This Summer– And Falling in Love with This Underrated French Coastline

  • Writer: Susanne Kremer
    Susanne Kremer
  • Jun 25
  • 6 min read

Coastal cliffs of Étretat, France, at sunset with lush green grass atop chalky white rock formations rising above the blue sea.
Coastal cliffs of Étretat, France, at sunset with lush green grass atop chalky white rock formations rising above the blue sea.

Southern France in July? Why Everyone's Skipping the Côte d’Azur : Hot, crowded, and expensive. But there’s a coastline that feels refreshingly different – full of charm, much more relaxed, and yet still unmistakably French: Normandy. Here, elegant seaside resorts meet brisk Atlantic air, and you can still experience the feeling of “real France” – without jetsetters, without sky-high prices, but with style, sea views, and plenty of seafood.

Moule Frites
Moule Frites

A plate of fresh, cooked mussels on a red-and-white checkered tablecloth, ready to be enjoyed. This traditional dish is not only a culinary highlight but also a symbol of Norman cuisine.


When I think of summer by the sea, the crowded beaches of the Côte d’Azur don’t come to mind anymore.

Instead, I think of Normandy’s soft light, the scent of salt and shellfish, seafood stalls instead of champagne bars – and that feeling of seeing a whole different side of France. Quieter. More genuine. And honestly? Much more affordable.

Normandy is my personal summer secret for anyone who loves French flair but wants to skip the tourist-packed boulevards, overpriced hotels, and 100°F heat. This coast charms with pastel cottages, rugged cliffs, and a fresh breeze – all with far fewer crowds.

A man wearing a red sweater strolls along the wooden pier in Trouville  toward the vibrant red and white lighthouse beneath a clear blue sky, as a boat sails by in the tranquil waters.
A man wearing a red sweater strolls along the wooden pier in Trouville toward the vibrant red and white lighthouse beneath a clear blue sky, as a boat sails by in the tranquil waters.

The Trouville Pier, visitors enjoy a magnificent view of two lighthouses that proudly stand on the coast. The sun shines in the sky, illuminating the scene as people stroll leisurely along the wooden path.


1. Trouville & Deauville – Two Worlds, One Beach

The perfect starting point for your Normandy trip is Trouville-sur-Mer – a soulful fishing village. Imagine: narrow alleys, the honest scent of fish in the air, colorful market halls, a long sandy beach, and wonderfully little hustle and bustle. I loved it instantly.

The best part? A small pedestrian bridge takes you straight to Deauville – the weekend getaway spot for Parisians. Everything here is a bit more polished, elegant, and glossy. Instead of fish markets, you’ll find luxury boutiques, grand hotels, and the famous beach cabins named after Hollywood stars. But the beach? Wide, golden, and open to all.

My personal tip: Make Trouville your home base. It's authentic, down-to-earth, and more budget-friendly – with chic Deauville just across the bridge. Two nights are ideal, three are perfect. In the morning, sip a café crème by the fishing harbor, then stroll barefoot along the beach to Deauville. That’s how vacation starts.

Lifeguard station on the wide sandy beach of Deauville, overlooking the serene blue sea under a clear sky.
Lifeguard station on the wide sandy beach of Deauville, overlooking the serene blue sea under a clear sky.

2. Honfleur – Picture-Perfect, Yet Real

Just 25 minutes away lies Honfleur – and I promise, you’ll fall in love. This little artist town, with its crooked half-timbered houses, quaint harbor, and possibly the cutest crêperie ever, is simply... oui!

Wander through small ateliers and shops for hours, hop from bistro to bistro, and if you're a photographer, head out early – when the water is still and the colorful houses reflect like a Monet painting.

Honfleur is perfect for a day trip. But if you have time, stay a night. It’s so romantic, you won’t want to leave in the evening. And the food? A dream: fresh-caught fish, regional cider – and surprise – even great vegetarian options.

Historic charm meets vibrant waterfront life at the picturesque harbor of Honfleur, France, where colorful buildings and sailboats create a captivating scene under a clear blue sky.
Historic charm meets vibrant waterfront life at the picturesque harbor of Honfleur, France, where colorful buildings and sailboats create a captivating scene under a clear blue sky.

3. Étretat – Postcard Views with a Wow Factor

Next stop: Étretat. About an hour’s drive from Honfleur – and absolutely worth it. Here, the coastline turns into art: dramatic white chalk cliffs, natural stone arches over the sea, and a pebbled beach that sparkles in the sun.

Claude Monet painted here. And me? I just stood there thinking, “This can’t be real.” But it is.

The town itself is small and charming. It can get busy in summer, but it’s not overcrowded. Early risers are rewarded with nearly empty views of the cliffs. The hiking path along the cliffs is breathtaking – bring sturdy shoes and don’t forget your camera!

Tip: Stay 1–2 nights if you can. That gives you time to capture different lighting moods – sunset on the cliffs is magical. But it’s doable as a day trip too.

Picturesque aerial view of the stunning white chalk cliffs of Étretat in Normandy, France, showcasing the dramatic coastline and tranquil blue waters on a sunny day.
Picturesque aerial view of the stunning white chalk cliffs of Étretat in Normandy, France, showcasing the dramatic coastline and tranquil blue waters on a sunny day.

4. Barfleur – A Peaceful Ending

If you have at least a week (and you should!), head west into the Cotentin Peninsula – more specifically to Barfleur. A place most people don’t have on their radar – which makes it so special.

Barfleur is tiny. There’s an old harbor, a lighthouse, a few cafés – and lots of peace and quiet. No boutiques, no Instagram crowds. Just the sound of seagulls, clear air, and authentic village life. France here feels like a well-kept secret.

For me, Barfleur was the perfect final stop. After days of exploring, photography, and coastal hikes, it’s the place to unwind. Two nights are enough. Bring a book, take harbor walks, watch the fishing boats, and eat mussels until you can’t anymore.

Aerial view of a picturesque coastal town with numerous boats anchored in a serene harbor, highlighting charming old-world architecture and a distant lighthouse under a vibrant sky.
Aerial view of a picturesque coastal town with numerous boats anchored in a serene harbor, highlighting charming old-world architecture and a distant lighthouse under a vibrant sky.

Bonus Tip for Adventurers: Mont-Saint-Michel

Want even more of France after Barfleur? Here’s the cherry on top: Mont-Saint-Michel. This legendary abbey rising from the sea looks like a fairytale castle – no wonder it's a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Yes, it’s a bit of a detour (about 2.5 hours from Barfleur), but absolutely worth it – especially for photography lovers! Depending on the tide, the abbey either appears as an island or stands in dry sandbanks. Sunrise or blue hour are especially magical times to visit, with reflections and barely any tourists.

My hot tip: Spend the night nearby. There are charming countryside inns with views of the Mont – it doesn’t get more romantic. If you wake up early, you might have the abbey almost to yourself. The perfect grand finale for a Normandy trip you’ll never forget.


Mont Saint-Michel stands majestically as the sun sets, casting a warm glow over the medieval island commune surrounded by sweeping tides and expansive skies.
Mont Saint-Michel stands majestically as the sun sets, casting a warm glow over the medieval island commune surrounded by sweeping tides and expansive skies.
Joggers enjoy a scenic run on the walkway leading to the stunning Mont Saint-Michel, reflecting in the tranquil waters below, under a clear blue sky.
Joggers enjoy a scenic run on the walkway leading to the stunning Mont Saint-Michel, reflecting in the tranquil waters below, under a clear blue sky.

Normandy: Like Summer Used to Be (Only Better)


This trip was a return to what’s real for me. No overpriced sunbeds, no beach clubs with entry fees, no heatwaves. Just a fresh breeze, warm sunshine, charming towns – and the discovery that there are still corners of France that feel like a small adventure. Without long flights or deep pockets.

And in case you're wondering – can you swim in Normandy? Absolutely! The beaches are clean, expansive, and the water? Clear and refreshing. Maybe not as warm as the Mediterranean, but far more invigorating. And honestly – who needs 86°F water when you can stroll along an empty beach with a warm crêpe in hand?

So – instead of the Côte d’Azur, how about Normandy this year? Your summer-loving heart will thank you.



🍽️ Normandy Food Tip – What You Have to Try


Normandy tastes like the sea, apples, and lots of buttery love. Here are my favorites:

  • Moules-frites – Fresh mussels in white wine herb broth with crispy fries. Best enjoyed right by the harbor – complete with seagull soundtrack.

  • Crevettes – Fresh shrimp, often straight from the boat to your plate. Delicious plain with lemon or as part of a seafood platter.

  • Tarte Normande – Normandy-style apple tart: buttery crust, juicy apples, and a touch of Calvados.

  • Camembert & Cider – The tastiest love story of the region. Add a little baguette – and you’ve got yourself the perfect Norman picnic.

  • Calvados – The bold local apple brandy. Traditionally served as a “Trou Normand” between courses.

  • Teurgoule – Baked rice pudding with cinnamon – Normandy’s cozy dessert secret. Less known, but heavenly.

Don’t forget your camera – the markets of Trouville or Honfleur are a paradise for foodie photos with real local flavor!




Practical Tips for Your Trip

  • Getting there: Easiest by train from Paris – about 2 hours to Deauville-Trouville.

  • Where to stay: Charming small hotels or Airbnbs in Trouville are often cheaper and more personal.

  • Best travel time: June to early September – late summer is wonderfully quiet too.

  • Weather: A bit moody – so pack a windbreaker and sunscreen!


Follow me on Instagram for travel tips and photos: @skremerphotoOr visit my website for current travel guides:👉 www.wanderlustbysusannekremer.com

All images and text © Susanne Kremer. No unauthorized use, reproduction, or redistribution without my consent. For licenses or collaborations, contact me atskremerphoto@gmail.com.


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